When I was a kid, we spent every summer on a beautiful piece of farmland in what seemed to be the middle of nowhere. It was in Otsego County, home to Oneonta and Cooperstown. It was a long drive from our suburban town, and another world. The sleepy nearby village had two old general stores, an ancient grocery store, a pharmacy in a block of beautiful Victorian limestone building, and a hardware store. The lunch place served ham and cheese or tuna salad sandwiches on thin white bread. It was a step back in time, and it was wonderful. I longed to live there.
Later, my kids spent summers there, too. The lunch place was closed, and one of the general stores was closed, too. The pharmacist had died and his store became a bakery and cafe. But the sense that time was slower there, that the world was speeding by somewhere just down the highway, remained. When we arrived, it felt like we all let out a huge exhale. We slowed down, too.
Once my kids were grown, that town called to me, and I decided to make the leap into the life I’d always wished for. The farmland and its cabin had been sold long ago, so I looked for “my” house. I couldn’t find it in that little town I loved.
Then one day I wandered south into Delaware County. I’d never explored it before. And I found everything I hoped for. There was a lovely little village with well kept old homes, a few shops. There was a yearly event that was basically a big open house, celebrating the town, its people, and its history. I went, and fell in love.
We found a house that reminded me of houses I’d loved best. It was just outside town, with a view of nothing but hills, fields, and cows. We bought it, and we moved. Armed with nothing but optimism, we set to work building our businesses, tending to the house’s needs, and getting acquainted with the area. Maybe we were too unrealistic to be scared. I was convinced we’d be fine — this was where we were meant to be.
And we are fine. We’ve met some of the nicest, kindest people I’ve ever known. Our enthusiasm for this gorgeous area, this precious town, smoothed our entry, I’m sure.
It’s not perfect. Of course it’s not. Neither are we. But it is perfect for me. I have lived many places, but I have never felt so at home.
Here’s why (I think):
The countryside.
This isn’t a unique view. This kind of view is everywhere. Everywhere. Delaware County is still rural, still not overdeveloped. I know someday that could, and probably will, change. But I hope that day is a very, very long way away. Maybe never.
The local people.
Delaware County people don’t identify with the rest of the state. They’re wary of newcomers. They resent people who show up and complain, and they’re amused by transplants who don’t seem to understand how to do anything. The house you own will always be known as the house that belongs to the people who owned it sixty years ago. But they’re good neighbors, they’re kind, and most of them have a wicked sense of humor. If you arrive wide eyed, friendly, and totally in love with the area, you’ll feel right at home in no time.
The new people.
An influx of newcomers means there’s a community of expats, too. And most of them are artsy and interesting. There is, to be fair, a tension between new businesses that cater mostly to newcomers, and locals who find those businesses too expensive, too “city.” The smart businesses are finding a way to weave those two different threads together, creating a place that caters to everyone.
The cost of living.
Delaware County is one of the cheaper places to live in New York. Taxes aren’t too high, housing prices, though higher than they were, are still not impossible. There are still more workers than there are jobs, which is why many young folks leave once they’re out of school. To be fair, they probably also want a bit more excitement than life in the country offers. They’ll eventually be back.
The weather.
If you hate winter, this isn’t the place for you. This is high Catskills, meaning summers are brief and winters are cold. But even though the Catskills are only healthy hills compared to big boys like the Adirondacks, the climate has a definite Alpine vibe - lush, green, and comfortable in the summer, with long, wet springs and falls, and very cold winters. But we don’t get much of the severe weather that seems to be becoming the norm for other areas. Big storms tend to blow through, then vent the worst of their wrath on the Hudson River valley. And the lake effect snow that blankets communities to our north doesn’t generally get over the mountain from Otsego County. We are in the sweet spot, at least here in the northernmost reaches of Delaware County.
The houses.
If you love old houses, upstate New York seems to be blessed with more than its share of them. The villages in Delaware County have many examples of Victorian splendor that range from pristine to projects. And the countryside is still dotted with original farmhouses and old barns. The lack of development in Delaware County has meant tough times for the local economy, but it’s also meant that the charming old villages and farms are often intact. Many need restoration, or at least, like my house, a renovation that undoes some of the worst ideas of the sixties and seventies. But the charm is there, just waiting to be discovered and restored.
Fall and winter are slow times if you’re house hunting in the western Catskills. That’s an advantage for a buyer, as there’s not much competition. But if there doesn’t appear to be a house for you right now, wait til spring. That’ll bring a whole new crop of possibilities. One of them might be your home.